Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Lattice-Topped Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie

I still remember the first time I ate rhubarb. I was living in New York City in a tiny apartment with my roommate, Rosalie. During the weekends, Rosalie and I used to put on Sex and the City DVDs, shake up a couple of martinis and order dinner from our extensive takeout menu collection. We both love food and often exchanged recipes and cooked for each other. When I casually mentioned that I had never tried rhubarb, Rosalie was appalled.

Rhubarb isn’t a part of Chinese cooking. When I saw rhubarb at the grocery store, I assumed that it was rainbow chard. My mother isn’t a big fan of store-bought desserts, so I never even tried rhubarb in a pie or a cobbler.

Determined to change that, Rosalie took me to the farmer’s market the moment spring came. Living in southern California, where winter temperatures often rise to the 70s, spring isn’t a big deal. But in New York, spring was a treat. It meant that I could leave the house with less than four layers of clothing for the first time in months. Roads were clear of sludge. Young leaves sprouted from tree branches. Farmer’s markets finally had more than potatoes and gourds. We found rhubarb and strawberries and when we got home, turned them into a cobbler from “The Joy of Cooking.”

Rhubarb is a vegetable that’s mostly prepared as a fruit. When it’s raw, rhubarb is unbearably tart. But when cooked, like baked in a pie or simmered in a compote, rhubarb turns into this soft, tender and flavorful ingredient.

I remember thinking that it tasted a lot like baked Granny Smith apple when I first took a bite of that cobbler Rosalie and I made. It didn’t take very many bites for me to fall in love with rhubarb. I wondered how I had gone so long without eating it.

This is a classic strawberry-rhubarb pie. It’s the perfect balance of the tartness from the rhubarb and the sweetness from the strawberries. The filling also has some cinnamon, which adds some spice and warmness.

Of course you can use store-bought pie crust, but homemade crust is just so much better with its flakey texture and buttery taste. And you get to control what you put in it. Homemade dough is really easy and comes together faster than you’d think. If the lattice top is too much trouble, you can cover the pie with the second sheet of dough and simply cut a slit in the center to let the steam out.

I’ve made my fair share of rhubarb desserts since New York, but I will never forget the excitement and anticipation of the first time I tasted that strawberry-rhubarb cobbler. It’s a reminder of my favorite city and of those late-night martinis and Japanese takeouts I looked forward to every weekend.

Lattice-Topped Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie

Adapted from Bon Appetit, April 1997

Crust

  • All-purpose flour, 3 cups
  • Granulated sugar, 2 1/2 teaspoons
  • Salt, 3/4 teaspoon
  • Non-hydrogenated vegetable shortening, 2/3 cup, chilled and cut into pieces
  • Unsalted butter, 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks), chilled and cut into pieces
  • Ice water, about 10 tablespoons

Filling

  • Trimmed rhubarb, 1 pound, cut into 1/2-inch slices
  • Strawberries, 1 pound, hulled and quartered
  • Golden brown sugar, 1/2 cup packed
  • Granulated sugar, 1/2 cup (you may need 2 or 3 more tablespoons if the strawberries aren’t very sweet)
  • Cornstarch, 1/4 cup
  • Cinnamon, 1 teaspoon
  • Salt, 1/4 teaspoon

For glaze:

Egg yolk, 1 large, beaten with 1 teaspoon of water

To make crust:

Combine flour, sugar and salt in a food processor. Add the shortening and butter, using the pulse button to cut the fat into the flour mixture until a coarse meal forms. Blend in ice water, 2 tablespoons at a time, to form moist lumps. Dump lumps onto a working surface and gather into a dough ball. Cut ball in half. Flatten each half into a disk. Wrap separately in plastic; refrigerate for at least an hour. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled. Let dough soften slightly at room temperature before rolling.)

To make filling:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Combine all the ingredients for the filling in a large bowl.

Assemble pie:

Roll out one dough disk on floured work surface to a 13-inch round. Transfer to 9-inch-diameter pie dish. Trim excess dough, leaving 3/4-inch overhang.

Roll out second dough disk on floured work surface to a 13-inch round. Cut into fourteen 1/2-inch-wide strips.

Spoon filling into crust.

Arrange 7 dough strips atop filling, spacing evenly. Form lattice by weaving remaining dough strips in opposite direction atop filling. Fold strip ends and overhang under, pressing to seal. Crimp edges decoratively.

Brush glaze over crust. Transfer pie to a baking sheet. Bake 20 minutes at 400 degrees F. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees F. Bake pie until golden and filling thickens, about 40 more minutes. Transfer pie to rack and cool completely.

Serves 8.

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3 comments:

  1. Rosalie:

    Whoa! I totally just subscribed to your blog YESTERDAY and now today I feel famous. I am honored to have been the person to introduce you to rhubarb and to the Union Sq farmer’s market, which I really miss.

    This pie is gorgeous, and I have just seen rhubarb hit the stores around here, so I may have to dig out the old pie plates and give it a try. Hope you guys are doing well! I’d love to catch up sometime soon, and I do actually still have that plaque I was supposed to mail to you a million months ago, so one day soon you can expect that.

  2. Erica:

    Rosalie! I am so glad to hear from you! You are totally famous now. Everyone’s going to call you the rhubarb girl. Let’s catch up some time. Thanks for visiting the blog!

  3. Kelli:

    I love rhubarb!!! Your pie is beautiful! Reminds me of the country. :)

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